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As part of our celebration of HLK’s 175th anniversary, Sophie Day-Riley and Rachel Conway, trainee patent attorneys in our Chemistry and Life Sciences team, explore the hair and beauty industry from the 1920s to the 1960s and our firm’s legacy of protecting hair perming technologies.
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Sophie Day-Riley | Connect on LinkedIn | sdayriley@hlk-ip.com
Following a deep dive into HLK’s patent archives, we uncovered how Haseltine, Lake & Co., our legacy firm, played a pivotal role in supporting the pioneers of the beauty industry in safeguarding their innovations. In this article, we will explore how these patents have shaped the development of perm technologies throughout the 20th century, driving key advancements in both the chemicals used and the equipment designed to curl hair more effectively and safely.
The evolution of perming techniques
The perming process, also known as permanent hair waving, involves chemically manipulating disulfide bonds in the protein keratin, the main component of hair, using a redox reaction. The perm has been a staple treatment in the beauty industry for decades. Whilst the perm is often associated with the 1980s and, of course, the cult classic comedy movie Legally Blonde from 2001, the underlying technology has evolved over the past century.
The modern perm owes its roots to German hairdresser Karl Nessler who, in 1906, invented the first permanent wave machine. The device used a combination of heat and a chemical solution to curl hair. However, the process was cumbersome and time-consuming, requiring heated brass rollers and a strong alkaline solution. Despite its innovation, Nessler’s method had significant drawbacks, including the risk of scalp burns and severe hair damage.
During the 1920s, efforts to improve Nessler’s technique were widespread. The true turning point came in 1928 with the invention of the first patented perm machine (US1693515A), as shown in Figure 1. Notably, Marjorie Joyner made history as the first African American woman to receive a patent, revolutionising the perm process and paving the way for future advancements.
Figure 1: US 1693515A
Patents that inspired innovation
Patents, by their nature, provide a platform for innovation, allowing new ideas to be protected and shared with the wider industry. The knowledge disclosed in patents can act as a springboard to inspire further innovation. In this way, patents foster continuous growth within industries.
For example, in 1932, Haseltine, Lake & Co. filed the patent application GB401129A, which described a process for permanently waving hair invented by W.G. Barnett and G.G. Barnett. The patent is related to a hair-waving pad comprising a perforable, moisture-resistant envelope (Figure 2). A wound portion of hair would be soaked with an alkaline solution and wound in the envelope, which contained a chemical that reacts exothermically with moisture, generating enough heat to sufficiently form a permanent curl in the hair.
The following year, in 1933, Haseltine. Lake & Co. filed the patent application GB418879A, an invention by E.G. McDonough which described an improvement to the heating pads for use in hair waving. The face of the envelope was supplied pre-perforated and temporarily sealed (Figure 3), which prevented the chemical substance from deteriorating due to exposure to atmospheric conditions prior to use. The improved pad also featured a sealing portion to secure the hair during use.
Aluminium foil was used as the outer wrapper for these chemical heating pads. Unfortunately, it was found in many instances that a whitish residue remained on the hair after perming. This was caused by partial penetration of the heating chemical through the protective wrapper, which then reacted with the aluminium foil and alkaline perming solution, resulting in the formation of aluminium hydroxide.
A solution to this problem was presented in GB537247A, filed by Haseltine, Lake & Co. in 1939 on behalf of United States Appliance Corporation for a chemical heating pad. The improvement featured the outer aluminium foil wrapper having a waxed paper liner. Furthermore, an absorbent membrane was placed between the outer wrapper and the inner assembly. This helped minimise contact between the heating chemical, the foil, and alkaline perming solution.
In addition to playing a role in the advancement of tools and equipment used in the perming process, Haseltine, Lake & Co. also aided in protecting inventions relating to the development of perming solutions.
Ammonium thioglycolate was widely used in the perming process, but it posed significant issues due to its strong, unpleasant odour and its tendency to damage the hair with prolonged use. In 1965, Haseltine, Lake & Co. filed GB1113816 for Hercules Inc. whose patent application for a hair perming solution offered a less-damaging alternative to ammonium thioglycolate. The new formulation, which contained sodium bisulphite and a cationic resin, was effective at permanently waving hair without producing a pungent odour or requiring any oxidising agents.
Importantly, sodium bisulphite is still used in acidic and neutral perming solutions today.
Conclusion
At HLK, we are proud to have been involved in obtaining patent protection for inventions that have played a key role in the advancement of perming technology. From the early development of chemical heating pads to the creation of less-damaging perming solutions, the knowledge disclosed in these patents has helped to refine the perming process. Today, the perm remains a timeless, widely used treatment, nearly a century later.
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This is for general information only and does not constitute legal advice. Should you require advice on this or any other topic then please contact hlk@hlk-ip.com or your usual HLK adviser.
